French 101, Paris Hilton

Friday, September 4, 2009

Today we see Monique for the last time. I make coffee for her again. It's funny how you can tell when people are good and kind even if you can't understand all they are saying. Monique is petite and attractive and good at her work.

Bernie, however, was very impressed by Marie-Louise's household help. She answered the door one day when we stopped by. She was wearing the traditional French maid outfit: white apron over black dress. Blond hair and a tattoo added to the mystique.




























It's cold today. We've arranged to meet Dominique at the Mayor's office in Peray. She wants to show us the very old church next door to the Mairie. Dominique's been very busy since she became mayor. She's also a newspaper reporter. As soon as she sees us, she begins speaking in French to us. After seeing our completely puzzled expressions, she immediately switches to English. I wish I could do that!

Parts of the old church at Peray date to the 11th century. Services are rarely held here, or in any of other village churches in France. A largely Catholic country, France has drifted away from the church since the world wars - indeed, since the French Revolution. Before that, the church was very much a part of the political machinations and closely aligned to the monarchy; hence it stands to reason that the people had little use for the church as an institution when the monarchy was toppled.

The French do, however, have great regard for their history, and nowhere does this appear so prominently as it does with old churches. The central French government funds restoration of many of these churches and the old cemeteries that occupy church grounds.

At Peray, the cemetery is the old style, in other words, with underground burials. New regulations demand that all burials must be above-ground.

Dominique points out some carving on the outside church wall. The inscription seems to mark the burial there of a high-ranking military officer from the 17th century, who died on February 10, 1681.

The roof of the church has begun to leak. Dominique is applying for funds to repair it, but matching funds must be raised in this tiny village, no small feat. Fundraising is a global problem, apparently.

It would be a shame to lose this building. Inside is wonderful decoration, some of it recording the history of the church and parishioners from long ago. Beautiful artifacts remain. Even the last priest's robe still hangs in the closet. An beautiful figure of Christ stands on the altar.

We thank Dominique and let her get back to her work.

Back at the house I take down the sheets I'd hung on the line this morning. We put clean sheets on Joan's bed and move our things upstairs again. They will be home Sunday night.

Bernie books our room for our last night in France - it's a Paris Hilton (Orly). It's modern, we understand, and has no particular character, but they provide shuttle service to the airport.

At dinnertime we decide to try the Chinese restaurant. To compare, we order the shrimp ravioli here, too. The Cambodian version was better.

We sleep in the loft again tonight. It's cozy and we can see the moon through the skylight.
bookings to go - Paris Hilton.